This summer, I took a two-day, one-night trip to Kyoto, my first visit in over a decade. On my previous trip, I explored Kyoto’s famous tourist spots with a friend, but this time, I went solo with the main purpose of attending a Kanzashi Exhibition. I also visited a few kimono-related shops as time allowed.
Many Tourists in Kyoto
Upon arriving in Kyoto, the first thing I noticed was how many international tourists there were! Fukuoka, where I live, also sees a lot of tourists, but they tend to be mostly from Asia. In Kyoto, though, it felt like people were visiting from all over the world, which makes sense considering Kyoto’s universal charm, even from a Japanese perspective.
Kyoto Shibori Dyeing Museum
On the first day, I met a friend who lives in Shiga Prefecture, but before our meet-up, I visited one shop: the Kyoto Shibori Dyeing Museum. You can try shibori dyeing there, but I opted just to see the exhibits this time.
Learning Shibori Techniques
The visit started with a video explaining the shibori dyeing techniques, followed by displays of the tools and actual dyed fabrics. While I had a basic understanding of shibori, seeing the real thing up close made me realize just how intricate the techniques are.
Here’s an example of the fabric wrapped with thread before dyeing—it’s incredibly detailed, all done by hand! It’s truly impressive.
A Little Story
Despite the time and effort involved, the pieces don’t sell for high prices, meaning artisans often only earn about 500 yen an hour for their work. This comparison between hand-stitched Hikita shibori and machine-stitched needle shibori shows just how much smaller the dots are when done by hand. Machines, restricted by the size of their needles, can’t achieve the same level of precision.
Amazing Artwork Using Shibori Techniques
Choju-giga
At the museum, there was also a display of Chōjū-giga, known as Japan’s oldest manga.
I must admit, I didn’t know much about it and had always thought of it as just “old-fashioned illustrations.”
The scroll on display was a whopping 35 meters long, but since it tells a story, it was engaging from start to finish. After the video, a museum staff member gave a detailed explanation in both Japanese and English. Their insights made the experience even more enjoyable.
Olympic Edition of theChoju-giga
There was also another fascinating piece called Shibori Sports Chōjū-giga, created for the Olympics.
It was 40 meters long and took two years and three months to complete with the help of about 50 artisans.
They used the same patterns from the original Chōjū-giga, but with a playful twist—animals were doing sports like relay races, bouldering, and wrestling! It was adorable and impressive.
↑used same pattern!
↑bouldering
↑wrestling
In the museum shop, they sold a variety of items, including books about shibori, parasols, and bags. I bought an eco-bag in a different color from the one my mother picked—its small size seemed practical.
Kyō-Yūzen dyeing
On the second day, I dove into the main part of my Kyoto trip: sightseeing. First, I visited Marumasu Nishimuraya, where I tried my hand at Kyō-Yūzen dyeing.
How to dye
The technique involves applying dye to stencils and brushing it into the fabric to create patterns. I chose a drawstring pouch as my item and selected three different stencils for the front and back. The shop staff encouraged me to use as many stencils as I liked.
Select Stencils
There were a lot of stencil options to choose from, which made the experience even more fun.
After selecting my item and stencils, the staff demonstrated the steps with dye and brushes, and then I got to work. They checked in with me occasionally to make sure everything was going smoothly, but I mostly worked independently. I could either use the pre-made colors or mix my own, giving me plenty of creative freedom. Although I followed the samples, I was quite pleased with the final result, even if one side ended up a bit cluttered.
I spent about two hours there, and by the end, I was exhausted but very satisfied. I’ll definitely return next time I’m in Kyoto!
Kanzashi Exhibition
The main event of the trip was the Kanzashi Exhibition at the Hosomi Museum. There were various combs and kanzashi (traditional hairpins) on display, and it was stunning.
Crystal Kanzashi
This crystal kanzashi, for instance, was perfect for summer with its cool, refreshing look.
Fluttering Kanzashi (Birabira Kanzashi)
Another piece, shaped like a birdcage, was often used for bridal hairpins, with a nightingale inside symbolizing the bride being cherished by her new family.
Beni-ita
There was also a small lacquered board called a beni-ita, used for storing lipstick, which was quite elegant.
Interestingly, they also showcased historical hairstyles, including those worn by unmarried women, married women, and even mistresses—quite fascinating!
Kanzashi Museum In Tokyo
Most of the kanzashi on display were originally housed at the Kanzashi Museum in Tokyo, which is currently closed.
Not knowing when I might get another chance to see these items, I braved the sweltering heat to visit, and it was absolutely worth it. (For the record, Kyoto’s summers are notoriously harsh!)
Shopping In Kyoto
Afterward, I strolled around the shops in Gion, including Sanbi-dō, which sells lovely Japanese goods perfect for souvenirs. They had a great selection of half-collars, obi-age, and obi-jime. I picked up a handkerchief before heading to Kyoto Station, where I bought gifts for friends and then returned to Fukuoka.
A Very Fulfilling Trip to Kyoto
I walked so much on this trip that my legs started aching by the afternoon of the second day—it’s been decades since I’ve had muscle pain from anything other than working out! Kyoto in the summer was even hotter than I’d heard. Even though I rarely sweat, after just 10 minutes of walking, I was drenched. If you plan to visit during this season, take care of your health!
Despite the heat and exhaustion, the trip was incredibly fulfilling. There’s still so much I want to do and experience in Kyoto, so I’m already looking forward to my next visit. Thank you for reading!
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