Hello!
Today, I’d like to introduce a fascinating video I found on traditional techniques used in kimono making. I’m passionate about conveying the beauty of Japanese kimono craftsmanship on this site, though explaining these techniques clearly in writing can sometimes be challenging.
This video, however, breaks down each process, explaining the craftsmanship involved and why these textiles are so valuable.
Here’s a summary of the main points. I hope you’ll find it helpful to read along as you watch!
About the Video
The presenter in the video is a seasoned expert with 27 years in the kimono industry.
[Summary of Key Points in the Video]
- 1:53 – Shiro Oshima Tsumugi
- Patterns and Detail (2:31): The more warp threads with a kasuri design (ikat technique), the more intricate the patterns. This video compares two textiles: A has 560 kasuri threads, while B has 1,200, allowing for finer detail, such as elegant curves. This intricacy adds significantly to the cost, and textiles like B are now very rare.
- 5:47 – Ryukyu Kasuri
- 15:53 – Kyo Yuzen
- A: Approximately 1 million yen
- B: Approximately 100,000 yen
- Even among kimonos labeled as Kyo Yuzen, prices and overall quality can vary greatly based on the production method and the artisans’ skill level.
- (A)
- High-quality fabric: This piece is made from Hama Chirimen fabric, woven in Nagahama, Shiga Prefecture. Its smooth surface brings out the dye’s colors vividly. Both the quality of the dye and the fabric impact how colors appear, with premium fabrics allowing for richer tones.
- Intricate design: It’s not the number of patterns that dictates the price but how each motif is meticulously designed to enhance the overall aesthetic. The arrangement of empty spaces contributes to a beautiful drape when worn.
Example: Leaving space at the hem enhances the wearer’s silhouette, and an empty area around the back allows for a visually pleasing look when the obi is tied. - Hand-drawn Itome details (20:12): Every motif is outlined with fine, hand-drawn white lines, creating a soft effect due to the slight variations in line thickness (20:58). This labor-intensive approach brings a delicate softness to the design. (Note: An alternative method, called kata itome, uses stencils to apply paste, but hand-drawn lines are unique to top-tier craftsmanship.)
- Master artisans: Each step of the process is completed by top-tier professionals, with every detail entrusted to specialized artisans, resulting in a piece of exceptional craftsmanship.
- 22:40 – Natural Textiles
- B (Important Intangible Cultural Property, Echigo Jofu): Made from finely split and twisted hemp fibers, woven on a traditional handloom, creating irregular thread thicknesses that add a unique character.
- 25:49 – Bingata
- Ryukyu Bingata (B): The white areas are blocked with a paste, and colors are then added by hand, with subtle shading (kumadori) creating a distinct look.
Supplementary Notes from the Video
The video includes several terms, which I’ve explained briefly below for additional context:
Shiro Oshima Tsumugi
A specialty of Amami Oshima, Kagoshima Prefecture, known for a complex dyeing process that uses mud to create its signature black color. Shiro Oshima is a lighter version with unique white designs.
Ryukyu Kasuri
An Okinawan ikat fabric that takes around a month to complete, involving several specialized artisans.
Yuzen Dyeing
This process includes over 20 steps to create intricate designs by using resist-dye techniques to prevent colors from bleeding.
Bingata
Originally worn by Okinawan royalty, Bingata uses a stencil-dyeing technique that is distinct to the region.
Kumadori
A shading technique in Bingata that adds depth and a three-dimensional effect to the patterns.
My Reflections
I learned so much from watching this video myself! I don’t often visit kimono stores out of worry that I’ll feel pressured to buy, so I’ve read a lot but seen few of these fabrics in person.
The discussion of plain fabrics was particularly eye-opening; I’d thought that patterns alone determined value. And the section on Bingata introduced me to Edo Bingata and Kyo Bingata varieties, each with its unique characteristics depending on the type of dyes used.
The world of kimono truly has endless depth! I hope this post helps you appreciate the artistry behind these beautiful textiles.
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