How to Wear a Kimono: A Basic Overview

Today, I’ll give a brief explanation of the process of wearing a kimono.

For a detailed list of items needed for dressing, please refer to this article.

Underware

Tabi Socks

Start by putting on your tabi socks. Tabi socks have a hook closure called hakoze, which can be tricky until you get used to them, so it’s easier to put them on first.

Kimono-Specific Bra

As for undergarments, you can wear your usual ones, but it’s better to avoid wired bras. Instead, opt for a wire-free, kimono-specific bra or consider going without one.

Kimono fashion favors a straight, cylindrical figure, so the chest is usually flattened. If your bra has padding, it can be difficult to flatten the chest, and wired bras might become uncomfortable as the wires dig into your body. If you feel uneasy going without support, a kimono-specific bra is recommended.

Susoyoke (Underskirt)

First, wrap the susoyoke (underskirt) around your waist. The hemline should be at ankle height.

Hanjuban

Then, put on the hanjuban (short undergarment). Cross the right side underneath and the left side over the top. To keep the back from showing, pull the fabric down slightly at the back.

Once the base is set, it’s time for padding.

Padding (Hōsei)

Padding is done to create a straight, cylindrical shape. I usually use towels, but you can also purchase ready-made padding items if you prefer.

Use towels to smooth out the body’s curves. If you have a slender upper body, add towels to your chest area. For those with a fuller chest, use towels to flatten the chest. If you have a defined waist, wrap towels around it to reduce the curves. You can also place towels between your lower back and buttocks to even out the difference.

Dressing in the Nagajuban

Once padding is complete, put on the nagajuban (long undergarment).

This step is skipped for yukata (summer kimono), as you don’t wear a nagajuban underneath a yukata.

Materials Of Nagajuban

Nagajuban comes in a variety of materials, such as silk, polyester, and cotton. Personally, I prefer silk for its comfort and how it molds to the body, but I often choose polyester for its ease of care. Keep in mind that polyester can be a bit slippery compared to silk, so you’ll need to be careful.

Variety Of Nagajuban

There are also two-piece nagajuban, and some hanjuban come with a built-in collar, which is particularly handy in warmer weather.

However, they typically feature tubusode (short sleeves), so they aren’t suitable for formal occasions.

You can even swap the tubusode sleeves for longer ones if needed. There are attachable sleeves available for purchase, and you can likely make your own with some basic sewing skills.

Adjusting the Position of Your Kimono Collar

Once you’ve put on the nagajuban, cross it over your chest. The goal is to have both sides of the chest neatly covered.

Ensure that the back neckline (emon) is pulled out properly and that the center seam runs along your spine. Secure the chest area with a koshi-himo (waist tie) and add a date-jime (obi-like belt) to hold it in place. The date-jime I’m using is made of urethane with Velcro on both ends, making it easy to fasten.

Putting on the Kimono

Now it’s time to put on the kimono itself. First, determine the hemline and secure the waist with a koshi-himo. Make sure this step is tight enough to prevent the kimono from slipping down.

Next, adjust the position of the collar and secure the chest with another koshi-himo. Add a date-jime to hold everything in place.

This one is made from Hakata silk and is securely tied at the back.

Smooth out the ohashori (the folded-over part of the kimono) for a tidy look.

Tying the Obi

If your obi-ita (obi stiffener) has an attached elastic band, put it on before wrapping the obi. In this demonstration, I’m using a Nagoya obi to create the otaiko (drum) knot.

Final Look

Here’s the final look: the otaiko knot is formed with the help of an obi-makura (obi pillow).

The obi-age is used to cover the obi-makura (although it’s not shown in the image).

After adjusting the obi-age, tuck it neatly into the obi.

Lastly, tie the obi-jime (obi cord) tightly to secure the obi. This is important, as the obi-jime helps keep everything in place.

Let’s Step Out in Kimono

Now, slip on your zori sandals, and you’re ready to go!

This was a very general overview of the process.

For detailed instructions on how to wear a kimono or tie an obi, there are many helpful videos available on YouTube from various creators.

If you find a video but aren’t sure what they’re saying or need further explanation, feel free to reach out. I’ll be happy to help with translations or clarifications!